If you own an automatic equipped GM vehicle, you've probably felt the dreaded slip before. One day, everything is fine, with crisp shifts and smooth operation. The next day, it's all over the rev limiter on the 2-3 shift and you're suddenly feeling down in the dumps. Unfortunately, it happens to all of us at one time or another and it's usually right after you spend all of your hard earned cash on a new speed part or power adder. If you've never been inside an automatic transmission before, it can be a terrifying experience. Seriously, it looks like it works on magic, fluid, and money, which is almost accurate if you don't really understand what is going on. Luckily, there are plenty of quality transmission shops that can rebuild your transmission without an issue, taking a 400-hp capable factory unit and turning it into a 650+ horsepower tire fryer. And, whether you're going to have someone go through your slushbox for you or you're going to try to tackle it yourself, it's important to understand the key parts of the transmission and how each one works.

In the second part of our saga with Redline Motorsports, the crew began tearing down the ZL1 with less than 300 miles on it, just after our track test. The thrust of their efforts would be to utilize the same means of power production, which proved very effective on the CTS-V and other LS based engines. The first and most obvious modification would be increasing the boost, which is done (in this case) with a larger ATI drive pulley and a smaller LPE supercharger pulley. Increasing boost by this method amplifies a restriction in the intake path-the cast aluminum blower snout.

As a builder of the esteemed HTR series of fifth-generation Camaro SS's with an upcoming ZL1-based series, Redline Motorsports was eager to be on the forefront of testing the 2012 Camaro ZL1. Owner Howard Tanner was lucky enough to purchase one of the first automatic ZL1s, with a handful of modifications already stock-piled in anticipation at Redline's new Pompano Beach, Florida location. A mere 3-hours' drive from GMHTP headquarters, we were on stand-bye waiting for Howard to take delivery and head to Palm Beach International Raceway for a private test session on April 18th. While a sunny 90-degrees with 1,740-feet of DA wasn't exactly ideal, it was definitely a great test for the sophisticated E67 computer and the ZL1's upgraded intercooler system. Prior to the test session, Redline fabricated and dyno tested a cold air intake before returning back to stock as well as installed a 160-degree thermostat, removed the washer tank (for the intake fabrication), and installed a line lock for easier burnouts. All else was as delivered from GM including the tire pressure.

With the economy being as it is, every dollar gets stretched to the limit and then some. In the case of the performance hobby, the more bang you get for your buck, the better. It costs money to go fast and make power, but what if good old Uncle Sam gave you enough to do it instead of trying to beg, borrow, steal, and suck up to your better half? Such is the case with our subject on the following pages. If this black '98 Z28 looks familiar, then you're not mistaken as this fourth-gen F-Body has graced the pages of GMHTP in the past. However, low oil pressure has forced the Camaro to not roam the streets as intended, but instead sit in the driveway waiting for some much-needed help. Enter our tax refund rebuild.

Well, here we are with another story about dynamometers and we've tested three of them at a time in one article. Already interested in skipping ahead to see which one is the "best?" Don't bother, we'll come right out and say it: They are all great. Disappointed? Sorry, but it is the truth. Several years ago, the debate raged between companies, with each brand recruiting a hoard of loyal zealots who ran to Internet forums and announced "X-brand is better than Y-brand because Y-brand is terrible!" Owners of such dynamometers rallied behind this too, posting long threads about how their dyno of choice was far superior to those "other brands" and real tuning can't be done on anything but the one they have. Of course, we all know this just isn't the case, since fast and well tuned cars come out of different shops all across the country, some with Brand X, some with Brand Y, and some with no dyno at all! So, what is the real deal here?